Red and white lighthouse in Jamestown Accra

A walking tour of Jamestown, Accra – a place of resilience and beauty

A year ago when my mom came to visit us, we first discovered Jamestown. Along with Usshertown these are the oldest districts of Accra. With its iconic bright red and white lighthouse and vibrant colourful buildings, this fishing town is an enlivening place to walk through, and although the extreme poverty will likely leaving you heartbroken and humbled, it is the overwhelming sense of resilience of its people that makes the biggest impression, and this strength pulses through the town like a heart pounding after a strenuous run.

Kayayei – the carrier girls of Ghana who bear the load of goods that they will likely never be able to afford

We reach the end of the narrow fabric alleyway of Makola market where we have given into ‘just one more piece’ after spotting a unique African wax print of elegant swallows mid flight. The bird prints are quite rare and we don’t see them very often. We are hot and experiencing what I've termed ‘fabric…

The Magical Madness of Makola Market

Makola market is one of those places that expats here seem to love, hate or tolerate for a once off touristy outing. I fall into the first category and this doesn’t surprise me when I think back to how much I used to enjoy trips with my mom to the Durban fleamarkets. Did you know…

Ghana Independence Day Wanderings

63 years ago Ghana gained its independence from the British and its name changed from the Gold Coast to Ghana, with Dr Kwame Nkrumah sworn in as Ghana's first president. To commemorate this important day we enjoyed a public holiday a month ago on Friday 6 March. As it was the last Independence Day we…

An Ode to my Road – a tribute to my neighbourhood streets in Accra Ghana

Oh prettiest road we have ever lived on, as we turn into you we are met with such a exquisite tunnel of green and home is where all the light is at the end. Thank you for your trees that have sheltered me from the Ghana sun as I have exited our compound on my…

Much Needed Mosque Meditation at the Accra Central Mosque

We arrive back in Accra at the beginning of January from our wonderful, busy Christmas trip to Durban. Read about the time we spent in the bush on safari here and about the South African home comforts and things we bring back with us here.   In the three weeks that we have been out…

A shared Love of Stitching – the seamstresses and tailors of Ghana

*This post is close to my heart. I've taken the photos during our time in Ghana during walking tours of Jamestown and Nima, village stops on trips out of town and sometimes at random moments around the city. Most of the time my offer to pay for a photo is politely refused. I had toyed…

Neighbourhood history lessons of a sneaky black chief who tricked the Danes for a while – a visit to Osu Castle.

I look at the photo of the beach that I had taken the previous day and I picture Nicholas, our art teacher standing there over 30 years ago. A young student taking photos of the castle for artistic inspiration, with his film camera. Innocently considering the angle and focus of the shot when he was…

Nay to all that marketing but YAY for the monthly Green Butterfly market in Accra!

One of the things I love about living in Ghana is that there is no consumerist culture. I hardly go to the mall unless we need something from Game or Shoprite or we make a rare trip to the one of the two movie cinemas in Accra. I don’t miss being bombarded by mannequins who…